Women’s Streetwear SS17 Trend Report

In the age of globalization, diversification is both cure and poison at the same time. Niches in niche-markets offer lots of success, catering for a special audience with an even more unique product. At the same time, these niches and specialties segment the market into more and more sectors, making things harder and harder to follow and overlook. Anna Langer has analysed the main trends for women’s streetwear in spring summer 2017.

Vans

The challenge is pretty clear. “The influx of vertical, fast fashion retailers has impacted the overall market, making fashion pieces more attainable than ever,” says Nikita Brand Director Stephie ter Hürne. “But meaningful brands pushing their products and stories are quickly making up the ground they lost to vertical retail a few years prior. This shift in the market is creating great opportunities for brands like Nikita in the streetwear space.” Michael Spitzbarth, CEO & Founder of bleed clothing agrees: “The women’s streetwear market is very fashionable, trend-oriented and also fast moving – the keyword is fast fashion. That’s all part of globalization and is spread through social media. It’s especially hard for small brands to keep up with that.” So instead of “chasing after every new trend” he’s focusing on “more timeless and functional products with good and durable quality.”

The activewear market is growing and expanding very quickly, says Marie Lauga, Global Head of Design at Roxy, which they’re answering with a designated fitness range for the “sportier customer. But we also feel that sport is influencing fashion.” She continues that today the market is also about “breaking the codes” and “using the sport codes in a feminine way.” Sneakers have already become a “daily uniform” for many women, thinks Amelie Robert, Merchandising Manager for women’s apparel and accessories at Vans. “On the other hand, customers are looking for feminine products. The woven items are performing well,” Marie continues, “products with lace or embroidery details are often our best-sellers.”

TRENDS
Such details play a vital part in many collections in spring/summer 2017, like three-dimensional braids, mesh and female artist-provided graphics from Nikita and Roxy are employing a “mix of prints, texture, colours,” regional crafts, hand worked techniques and culture influences. Ragwear’s collection follows a Mexican theme as well and Iriedaily sport “expressive all over prints on high quality materials,” says Marketing Manager Denise Graff.

Iriedaily

Volcom focus on “coastal living in the 60s and 70s,” with fitted ringer tees and “bubble type; a kitchy vintage Hawaiiana pattern and hand drawn, geo filled leaf prints,” explain Megan LeBrasseur and Kelly Summer. Protest go for the “real beach flavour,” with tunics and dresses in many lengths that make a great combination with their swimwear, while Vans also draw inspiration from their Californian roots. They pair classic prints and patterns with staple tees and elevated wovens for the more sophisticated consumer, who is “curating her suitcase before heading to festivals.” Roxy address this with their Stephanie Gilmore collection, which is inspired by her way of life, travel and experiences, as well as her taste, incorporating some high fashion pieces that Marie has high hopes for. Next to that they feature a “70s nostalgic spirit capsule,” inspired by their athletes and their untamed attitude to life, “a touch of tomboy and a little bit rock ‘n roll.” Vans work with a lot of logos, “preferably on a large scale with a minimal execution,” for an “athletic revival” with influences from the 90s.

Bleed and Makia on the other hand prefer an “‘easily approachable’ everyday feel, that is somewhat timeless in both style and comfort,” as Makia CCO Totti Nyberg explains. And Michael from Bleed adds that “timeless products, which are easy to combine with each other,” are also “part of a sustainable production.” Ragwear are constantly expanding their organic collection that features vegan fabrics and trimmings, ecological dyeing, minimal water pollution and ethical work environments, while Iriedaily stay true to their roots in the German capital with their “sporty, feminine and sexy” urban Berlin streetwear style.

COLOURS
Next to classic summer shades like Apricot Blush and Bright Coral from Volcom, sun-bleached neutrals from Roxy, pastels and washed colours from Vans or ecru, light salmon and light olive from Iriedaily, red seems to be the colour of choice for next season. Chilli Red at Ragwear, Merlot at Volcom, Hibiscus Red from Roxy, “pops of red” in the Vans collection, muted red with a “Mediterranean touch” from bleed as well as a soft pinkish brown shade called “Café Crème” from Nikita.

Nikita

Other highlights include “Vintage Gold grounded with black” from Volcom and “pale gold” in the 70s spirit capsule from Roxy, as well as “classic black and grey shades” from Ragwear.

Makia stick to their usual maritime-themed colours with inspiration from the harbour area of Helsinki, mixing navy with grey and ecru. Nikita also stay close to home, incorporating influences from the industrial harbour in Iceland with watery blue-greens, corals, rust-like clay, and soft white, silver and grey.

PRINTS & PATTERNS
In between colour and pattern, melange fabrics and heather tones have been very successful last year and can be found in many products from Ragwear and Makia, “so that it’s easier to cross mix and match the collection together,” says Totti.

Makia

Volcom “capitalize on the blooming floral trend with a mushy floral”, which is a standout for Roxy who follow a feminine approach with watercolours, overlapping and transparency. Vans are also “going deep into tropical florals, directly inspired from iconic Californian patterns,” with a reinterpreted Hawaiian print. Ragwear mix “girly cute prints such as flowers” with dots to give sporty clothes a young, playful mood and Protest go with “ultra feminine floral playsuits and shorts.”

Worn plaids, yarn dye flannel shirts and animal prints from Volcom, sea-industrial inspired all-over prints from Nikita and stripes in many variations offer alternatives for less girly customers, like a “geometric jacquard striping pattern,” from Volcom, textured or tie died stripes from Roxy, Navy stripes from Makia and colour blocking from Iriedaily.

MATERIALS
When it’s hot outside, fabrics can’t be light enough, hence it’s no surprise that they play the lead in the spring/summer collections. Nikita go for soft printed viscose that is “light and summery, very breathable and airy.” Vans elevate their basics with “slub jerseys and vintage washes that have timeworn charm and will only get better with age,” while Volcom choose very soft knits and fuzzy fleece. Makia add light Merino, Iriedaily go with lightweight rayon, soft jerseys, lightweight nylons and chambray while bleed work with the vegan and vegetal silk Tencel.

Roxy add lace and crotchet inserts to their woven fabrics, Nikita use cotton mesh for layering effects and Volcom mix Cotton Crochet trimming and crinkled Gauze with an “eyelet fabric that feels new as it is patterned with less floral, more geometric embroidered elements.”

Ragwear expand their use of bonding fabrics while bleed add a new material that’s made out of recycled fishing nets. Denim also sees some fancy additions, as Vans introduce “interesting denim fabrications, linking our heritage feel to the 90’s trend.” For a more sophisticated angle, Nikita use a super soft Lyocell twill for denim-like shirts and shorts and Protest feature jumpsuits in a lightweight denim.

Vans

SILHOUETTES
Jumpsuits stay as a hot focus for summer, in soft 70s denim worn with ringer tees at Volcom, as printed sets, “offering the perfect match between a feminine shirt and a super cute short” from Vans and with “monochrome all over prints in lightweight denim,” at Protest.

Volcom play with volume mixing swimwear and apparel, Vans offer options to layer flannels and fleeces with fashion tops and logo tees, Nikita add some slimmer silhouettes to complement their signature asymmetrical and oversized lines and Iriedaily combine Kimono inspired, short boxy tops with modern, slightly shorter pants as well as sporty shorts and lightweight skirts.

The most important staple of a female summer wardrobe is of course the dress. Printed and floaty from Volcom and Roxy, long and glamorous from Protest, or more casual, sporty variations of long shirt dresses from Vans, Ragwear and Nikita.

Jackets are on the more sporty side as well next summer, like short fitted club jackets from bleed, all-over printed bomber jackets from Volcom and a “super lightweight new oversized Summer Bomber with adjustable elastic draw cord hem,” by Iriedaily. Ragwear also see a big comeback of hoodies and crewnecks for the summer, which are “becoming more and more important.” Nikita also features a Plaited Crew “adorned with 3D braided pieces,” elevating the tomboy look with feminine details so the customer can have both at the same. Because, as a woman who can have it all these days – why would you limit yourself to just one style, if you can wear them all?