Men’s Surf Apparel AW 15/16 Trend Report
At a crossroads between streetwear and prêt-à-porter, next autumn/winter’s surf collections are blurring boundaries by combining a variety of characteristics. Urban yet comfortable, casual yet technical, durable and multi-purpose, the cuts of 2015/2016 will trace the outline of a 21st century surfer: citizens from Monday to Friday and in surfing exile as soon as possible. This means more mature designs, which also leaves space for shirts and tailored trousers. A surfer’s figure has ever been more catered for, accessorised and more elegant than in 2015. You don’t believe me? Report by Denis Houillé.
THEMES & INFLUENCES
By maintaining its popularity through themes of Americana and folk icons, the world of retro seems to be unavoidable. The same goes for the motorcycle scene, which is inspiring numerous brands and is clearly still a winner. The phenomenon seems to be firmly anchored on what the surf and bike scenes have in common. Beyond the values and strong personalities that make them what they are, they share the same passion for travel, natural landscapes, music, camping, photography and art. Intrinsic to both worlds, these are the dearly-held themes of 2015’s proactive consumers who are fed up with the distant big brands and are yearning for authenticity and commitment. Jeffrey James Gonzales- Men’s Designer at Volcom makes a direct reference “It is an exciting time in the surf/skate/snow market, there is a real opportunity to get creative with product and connect with consumers through authentic stories.”
70s and 80s punk style graphics continue to spice up T-shirt collections with splotched typography and raw slogans whose effect is unstoppable in shops. This is a street aesthetic that we can also find in Maui & Sons with various notes of grunge and washed touches sourced directly from the ‘80s and ‘90s.
‘Adventure and exploration’ is also flavour of the season for many designers who promise items of faultless comfort and durability to accompany you while chasing the surf into the furthest reaches. In light of this, Finisterre has dedicated its entire collection to Cold Water Surfing. With European spots becoming more and more popular, whatever the season, you now have to venture to new, rugged, less accessible surf destinations. In their collection you can see numerous references to trawlers, mining sites and wild coastlines.
Reef is also distancing itself from the tropics for their autumn 2015 collection with products designed for the cold. “Double-layer shirts with chevron patterns, Primaloft filled sweatshirts, 400 gram fleeces”. All foldable for greater practicality, explains Eric Gigler, Design and Merchandising Director at Reef.
This is also the theme put forward by Billabong through their ‘Wanderlust Latitude’ collection that draws on the most rugged of winter surf trips during which “you need warm and especially well-made clothes; down-filled jackets for comfort, Polartec fleece liners, pants and sweaters reinforced with a windbreaker membrane” clarifies Menswear Design Manager at Billabong, Nicolas Perceval. The Volcommunity by Volcom range has also taken up the gauntlet with jackets that have a casual look but are as technical as mountain sports outerwear. From the cold waters of Bell’s Beach, Australia, Rip Curl continue to equip surfers on their “Search” with the Anti Series jacket; warmer, more comfortable and more waterproof than a classic jacket.
In the same way, O’Neill and their Adventure Series line are connecting the surf and snowboard worlds with very technical clothing. Since its launch 3 years ago this range has doubled its turnover each year, now reaching 10% of overall turnover.
COLOURS AND MATERIALS
The arrival of a new season with its new colours has loudly and proudly characterised shops’ new additions. This is apparent at Billabong whose autumnal palette oscillates between “mineral tones (colder summer colours) and more urban looks comprised of natural tones that are subdued and warm.”
It’s simple and natural at Finisterre, the colours, textures and motifs of their collections are directly influenced by the natural setting of surf trips, e.g.: clay, frosted glass, pine needles, autumn leaves, wild salmon, steel, coffee, rust and the ocean.
At Chiemsee, in addition to lots of black and white, you can see various shades of blue combined with intense reds: light sky blue, polished turquoise blue, indigo blue denim and smart navy blue.
Urban Beach are wavering between the retro masculine composed of strong, organic, rustic tones and the urban nomad who accommodates rich tones, decorated jeans and thick, robust knits with natural fibres.
Rusty are drawing their autumnal inspiration from a recent surf trip to Japan during which they were “blown away by the historical character of the vintage surf and skate shops of Harajuku.” A nonchalant cut that is very ‘90s, somewhere between surfing and skating and coming in rather tough colours and looks: black on black, red flannel, army jackets.
Wave goodbye to prints, the trend for blocks of simple colour and vintage tones are still safe bets and this goes for Tees as well as jackets. In retro, old school washes maintain an interesting place throughout surf collections. With T-shirts and denim knowingly treated with acid at Afends and shirts with colours faded by the sun from Deus Ex Machina, everyone wants to give the impression they’ve been wearing their items forever. For Rama McCabe, Design Manager at The Critical Slide Society, decolouration is the cornerstone of their collection, dictating the look of their shirts, cardigans and jackets.
When talking to designers, colour neutrality cropped up almost without fail as well as how ‘easy to wear’ and how ‘easy to mix’ together items are. The surf label is gradually vanishing from outfits, only appearing subtly in the branding and/or details.
STRONG SILHOUETTES
Comfortable with a casual look is undoubtedly this season’s winning combo. Consumers are looking for warm, technical articles without wanting to look like high-mountain guides. As Ernest Capbert, Brand Manager at Finisterre summarises “A decent snowboarding jacket isn’t enough anymore. Cold water surfers need their own identity and their needs catered for.” This crossover between the classic and the technical – now a priority – is illustrated in their range by heavy traditional knits, water resistant jeans, technical ponchos and even working socks! The same goes for Billabong who are purveying items that are both ‘easy to wear’ and very technical insists Nicolas Perceval.
In comfort, “Trousers with belts and elastic ankles are really sought after and represent a natural bridge between the light beach pant and more tailored cargoes,” highlights Jean Kress from Billabong design department. At Maui & Sons, they have managed to update the jogging pant by including different prints and fades, releasing them in a variety of different weaves and cotton pile explains Lacey Corkery, Design Director. Also in favour at Reef is the slim chino, both in its urban version with 2% elastane for comfort and a 13” opening at the ankle and in its more comfy beach version with a drawstring and “peach skin” texture. T.C.S.S. also mention two different versions: denim and lined cotton.
“For A/W 2015/16 we have definitely seen a shift in the design of the clothing to a more mature vibe, with more shirts and smarter trousers brought into play,” observes Urban Beach Graphic Designer, Emma Watkiss. To start with, denim is a best seller whatever the season through slim, skinny and generally close to the skin cuts for better performance. As for shirts, surf manufacturers continue to use tried and tested cuts and materials while increasing their inventiveness in prints.
Next autumn, though, the surf collection is fleshing out to better withstand the cold with “coats that cover you down to your knees, high boots, raised collars and sophisticated hats: a whole new image on the surf market” enthuses Ernie from Finisterre.
As for the jackets: two distinct, complementary cuts. One a short ‘biker style’ mid-season jacket and the other a longer technical parka for cold temperatures.
Reef has called upon their colleagues from the VF group, The North Face, in the design of its two best sellers (Squall and Insulator II). Their stylist Eric confirms: “We use the expertise of their production workshop and similar materials in order to obtain outdoor-approved products.”
SURF ECO-MARKET
More than a trend, eco-design continues to gain ground in designers’ collections. This is not surprising for Samuel Nolan (photographer and design manager at AFENDS) who thinks that it is “great to see such growth in ecological awareness on the most natural market there is!” he enthuses.
The use of hemp (sometimes woven with bamboo fibres) is becoming less and less of a novelty. Its low ecological impact and high durability make this magical fibre an ideal solution for brands as well as for consumers wishing to fight against waste and pollution.
Recycled and non-toxic materials are a priority for many but sometimes “a product that lasts many years is the most ecological thing you can offer,” affirms Ernie at Finisterre.
OVERVIEW
-Technical items with classic look
-Strong retro and biker influence
-Fusion of the best streetwear, fashion and surfwear
-Mature design, subdued tones and easy to wear
-Subtle surf labelling in the branding and details
